Sake!

The list at the bottom got out of hand almost as soon as I started, then I couldn’t muster the energy to update. It doesn’t mean much, and some of it is embarassingly uninformed. But I took all that time to type it, so there it is.

Maybe it’s easier if I just tell you a dozen things I really like? If you see these brewers on a menu, try them – I think good brewers make good sake at whatever level, and I’ve pretty much gotten over the idea that I need to drink a certain level. Then again, if you see these brewers on a menu, it’s likely that everything on the menu will be good in some way.
  • Juyondai  is deservedly famous – every one is different, interesting and delicious, and they make lots of different small-batch brews just to try them out. Incidentally, I don’t understand the “don’t drink the dai ginjo” stuff here (other than the exorbitant prices) – the first time I had one, it was almost viscous and oily, and certainly flavor-packed.
  • Jikkon is in a similar vein – always awesome. Kudokijozu is frequently great, especially in their normal bottlings (not the ‘super dry’ Bakuren) of ginjo and daiginjo.
  • Gassanryu is another from the same area (Yamagata), and seems to share Juyondai’s philosophy of experimentation as well as some of its quality (but not on restaurant menus).
  • Amabuki is my favorite sake from Saga – seems like the best balance of clarity and flavor – although I like the more flowery Nabeshima, and am happy with Azuma Ichi or Shichida.
  • Toyobijin is a good brewer; I was converted to them early on when I drank their super high-end product accidentally, but I love their ‘single rice field’ options too.
  • Furosen 不老泉is one of my real favorites; brewing everything in wood tanks, old-fashioned techniques, wild yeast…all of that produces big, interesting flavors. They (or their distributors) also seem to encourage getting a year or 3 of bottle age, which makes sake taste great if stored properly (like, at -4 Celsius)
  • Senkin 仙禽is similar in philosophy (most or all fermented in wood), but I’ve never seen it on a restaurant menu – only the 10 varieties in my local shop.
  • Jokigen 常きげん is another harder-to-find choice, if you’re talking about the one from Ishikawa and not the one from Yamagata. They do things like traditional brewing even at higher levels, which produces a bigger taste that I like.
  • If you have to drink major brewer sake, and Niigata at that, I’d go with Shimeharitsuru 〆張鶴 (or Hakkaisan 八海山 in a pinch). Dewazakura 出羽桜 is usually nice too for something so available; you may have noticed that I favor Yamagata sake in general.

And now, the out-of-hand, largely-meaningless, but still-existing list:
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About the ‘Liked It?’ rankings (1-4): I drank all these at sake specialists. They’re all famous, small-to-medium producers. I don’t usually write down things I hated. Thus the scores are very toppy; ordinarily I’d check the average and re-base my system (really). As it is, anything with a 2 is pleasantly drinkable, 3+ is good or great. 1 isn’t a value judgement, it just means it’s not to my tastes – these are all famous, well-regarded producers, and my tastes are immature anyway.

Brewer Prefecture Level/Name Drank at Liked it? Notes
Azuma Ichi 東一 Saga Tsugaru, Kashiwa 3
Suganadake 菅名岳 Niigata Nama gen Tsugaru, Kashiwa 4 The ‘snow hikers’ sake
Kamenoo 亀の尾 Niigata Tsugaru, Kashiwa 3
Nogomi の古見 Saga Tokujun Yataichi, Kashiwa 2 Heavy, strong, better with food.
Fukuiwai 福祝 Chiba Jungin Ichi, Roppongi 2
Kagataka 加賀鷹 Ishikawa Jun Kanae, Shinjuku 2
Takaisami 鷹勇 Tottori Kalakuchi Jun Santa, Ningyocho 2
Itaru 至 Niigata Jungin Santa, Ningyocho 3
Dassai 獺祭 Yamaguchi 50 Jundai Wakamatsu, Morishita 3 Very soft, no acid. Affordable for jundai. ‘Women’s sake’
Hidakami 日高見 Miyagi Wakamatsu, Morishita 2
Kokuryu 黒龍 Fukui Icchorai Asahi, Kasai 3 In keeping with KR’s style, a bit rough.
Gangi 雁木 Yamaguchi Jungin Uogokoro, Kasai 1 Would have sworn this was mediocre honjou. Bad storage?
Tedorigawa 手取川 Ishikawa Akaoni, Sancha 2
Amabuki 天吹 Saga Jungin Akaoni, Sancha 3 Perfect flavor profile for my tastes.
Taka 貴 Yamaguchi Tokujun Akaoni, Sancha 3
Suigei 酔鯨 Kochi Tokujun Yamahei, Monnaka 2 Good choice for a cheaper sake
Juyondai 十四代 Yamagata Honmaru Honjou Omasa Komasa, Nakano 4 Results vary by place, but honjou doesn’t get better.
Juyondai 十四代 Yamagata Omachi 雄町 Jungin Omasa Komasa, Nakano 4
Juyondai 十四代 Yamagata Dewasansan Omasa Komasa, Nakano 4 Holy shit.
Shuho 秀鳳 Yamagata Jundai Omasa Komasa, Nakano 4
Sasaichi 笹一 Yamanashi さ々一 Jundai Origarami Omasa Komasa, Nakano 4
Shimeharitsuru 〆張鶴 Niigata Jun Jungin 色々 3 Dependable in this space.
Momokawa 桃川 Aomori Jun Okajouki, Nakano 2
Michisakari 三千盛 Gifu Wajin, Meguro 1
Isojiman 磯自慢 Shizuoka Aiyama 50 Daigin Sake no Ana, Ginza 3
Hokusetsu 北雪 Niigata YK 35 Daigin Sake no Ana, Ginza 3
Kokuryu 黒龍 Fukui Ishidaya Jundai Sake no Ana, Ginza 4 Any time you can afford it, it’ll be good.
Hououbiden 鳳凰美田 Wakayama Jungin Sake no Ana, Ginza 3
Kokuryu 黒龍 Fukui Shizuku Daigin Yukari, Kamiyamada 3 Alcohol note put me off.
Kubota 久保田 Niigata Manju Jundai Yukari, Kamiyamada 3
Hiroki 飛露喜 Fukushima Jungin Santensan, Kamiyamada 2 Might have been stored badly; Juyondai also tasted meh here.
Hououbiden 鳳凰美田 Wakayama Wakamizumai Nama Jungin Toritoku, Kayabacho 2 Light, clean, too sweet
Joukigen 上喜元 Yamagata (Sakata) Jungin Toritoku, Kayabacho 2 Refreshing, but too light for chicken
Jikon 而今 Mie Jungin Kawashima, Musashi Koyama 3 Reliable brewer, good brew.
Jikon 而今 Mie Jundai Omasa Komasa, Nakano 4 Reliable brewer… great brew.
Yuho 遊穂 Ishikawa Jun Kawashima, Musashi Koyama 3
Kudokijozu くどき上手 Yamagata Bakuren Hana Modern, Kagurazaka 3 The ‘Super Dry’ +20
Nabeshima 鍋島 Saga Hana Modern, Kagurazaka 2
Minami 南 Kochi Hana Modern, Kagurazaka 1
Denshu 田酒 Aomori Jungin Hana Modern, Kagurazaka 3 Right in the pocket for me.
Kachikoma 勝駒 Toyama Hana Modern, Kagurazaka 1
Toyobijin 東洋美人 Yamaguchi Ichibanmatoi 壱番纏 Jundai Tamanegiya, Kagurazaka 4 Immediate impression: ‘balance’
Reisen れい泉 Hyogo Ranjatai Daigin Tamanegiya, Kagurazaka 2
Harugasumi 春霞 Akita Jun Nama Gen Umibatake, Ikebukuro 2
Aradama あら玉 Yamagata Jungin Umibatake, Ikebukuro 2
Mizubasho 水芭蕉 Gunma Hisanoji, Takasaki 2
Ugonotsuki 雨後の月 Hiroshima Jun Wadaya, Kayabacho 3 Surprisingly good at this level
Dassai 獺祭 Yamaguchi Jun Uotei, Monnaka 3 A weak 3, but has the brewery’s ‘soft’ low-acid style
Hakkaisan 八海山 Niigata Jungin Uotei, Monnaka 2 Widely available (B+W label), but a little harsh for jungin.
Hakkaisan 八海山 Niigata Honjou Sushi Zanmai 1 Reliable and widely available, but doesn’t excite me any more.
福千歳 Fukui Junmai Hiyaoroshi (maybe) Okamos, Monnaka 1 Sweet and simple.
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DAMN that’s a lotta sake.