Remember a day or two ago I was saying I wanted to knock off the ramen places on this street? There’s one more after Shi, but I can say with 20/20 foresight that I’ll hit it in a day or two. I can also say that Shi is the best place on the street. Nifty, a sort of lighter Jiro style with a surf theme.
I have to say that the interior is a little sad; they’ve made some effort to fix it up, but it’s a weak effort and doesn’t conceal the crappiness. I prefer a ramen place that revels in the crappiness.
But shit, cowabunga! One of my very, very liberal and sensitive college friends was recently offended by the new Tiki offering in kids clothing from Gymboree. I guess she’s be bugged by this place too, but maybe the master is actually of Samoan descent. In that case, who’s the jerk?
Pineapples will forever be a symbol of the white man’s cruel capitalist enslavement of the Hawaiian people after Dole’s takeover of the islands. Likewise Tikis after Trader Joe’s invasion of the Marquesas. Likewise fresh garlic and a rack of crushers after Hawaiian Joe crushed the local garlic market and developed a stifling monopoly on Maui Wowie garlic back in ’65.
Nobody’s got a damn monopoly on tastiness though, and we’re gonna let our fat flag fly high! This is a delightingly light, white tonkotsu with thick, firm noodles (not as wheaty and hard as Jiro, but good), lots of veg, some black fungus, and a delicious slice of pork fat. It won’t blow you away, but it’s good to the last drop.
Although I didn’t drink the last bit, and don’t recommend you to either.
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