Sometimes people ask how I find all these places. Much like Eddy Merckx describing his approach in training to be the world’s best cyclist as ‘Ride lots,’ I spend an inordinate amount of time looking. Seek and ye shall find. I actually find the looking almost as enjoyable as the finding and eating, because it’s so pleasant to ride your bike around quiet Tokyo neighborhoods at night. Here, check it out on YouTubez.
The starter was just some clams with vinegar miso sauce. Pretty good considering the humbleness and neighborhoodness of the place.
Then I got into asking the master about the menu, and he strongly recommended that I eat the ‘oden style’ tomato. I hate stewed tomatoes. Why did I order this? I can understand how it’s a good thing, and the dashi and the cooking and the tomato were all lovely, but it’s not for me. I ate it all, of course.
His other selection was much more interesting – sort of cold jellied chicken. That doesn’t sound like much, and in fact you might find it bad. It was like a soft nikogori (the jelly thing you always get at the beginning of a fugu course, with the skin mixed into jelly). Another master told me a few weeks ago that softer jelly is better for summer, and here it was very soft, with the chicken sort of mixed through. It was really interesting and good.
I’ve become a horrible bore about wanting to try the whole menu, and the ‘special mince’ sounded good. It’s a chicken patty mixed with a ton of herbs, mainly shiso, then crumbed and fried. It was pretty dense as far as these things go, but a nice idea. For some reason it’s rare to get menchi with herbs.
And likewise to the fry, one must try the grill. This was a simple piece of pork marinated in miso and sake lees, which gave it a heck of a weird flavor. And one that I immediately wanted to replicate at home.
There you have it folks. A perfect neighborhood spot, vying for world-class izakaya status. Actually there’s no vying. On my scale, this is as good as an izakaya gets…with some personal differences baked in, courtesy of an individualistic master, god bless ‘im.
Every one.
03-3635-7504
Is this Izakaya Sampo on bicycle? It is very nice that you could cycle to this place and we can see it in a movie. Hope you rode safely home after drinking. (You must have since you posted this).
Sure wish the cook in your childhood years knew about your seemingly intense dislike for stewed tomatoes!! Wonder if it was because she included them so much in the food you were served?!? It's now been modified to more freshly cooked tomatoes!!
Looks lovely, the bike riding at night. Almost as much fun as my bike ride this morning at the beach…no good food at the end though. You lucky.
Uncle N, I spend a lot of time on the bike (which is currently a $100 powder blue mama-chari with basket, bell and rack). It features in many of the posts from my neighborhood, or Otemachi, or Kanda, although usually as a silent companion. Once you start cycling Tokyo, you realize that you can get to places about as fast as taking the train, but you get to see a lot more scenery on the way there and don't have to do all that tiresome walking once you get there.
As for drink-and-ride, two glasses don't make for any danger.
I was introduced to your site by John. I made a note to myself to check out this place next time. Thanks!