Ganko ramen, Takadanobaba (がんこ)

If you’re willing to make a good effort, and you’re a little relaxed about time, you can go all sorts of places for lunch. Like Baba, home of 100 ramen shops and various college girls in costume. What’s up, sailor?

Walk up toward Waseda, going with the flow of kids on their way to school. A little after Meiji Dori, turn left at that tiny liquor store, right across from Ippudo. Spot the famous ramen shop in this alley? Nope, not the red-and-yellow front demanding attention.

The one with the tarp (my shop is black on the outside because black is how I feel on the inside)…and the bone.

Inside the tarp, no activity. The doors are blacked-out too. But he’s open.

It’s dumpy.

And well-used.

Cute? More like sad.

But awesome.

Words don’t do justice. The noodles are eggy and firm, old-style Tokyo. 

The soup has layers of chicken and fish flavor, and beef if you believe the bone outside. And a soupcon of char from the boiling oil poured on the onions at the last second. It’s almost too much. You should garnish with some burnt onions and green chili when your taste buds get to the point where they can’t feel any more.

Delirious, an ‘Ice Blast’ sounded pretty good afterward. Except it’s cigarettes.