Kyona, Kyoto (酒と味 京菜)

The Kamogawa, at night, looking north. Learned an interesting thing about orienting yourself within the (already very sensible) street grid of Kyoto: you always have mountains on three sides, and the ’empty’ side is south. The bright lights on the west bank are the outward-facing manifestation of the much-beloved and little-penetrated Pontocho district. Maybe it’s […]

Suzuki Sushi, Hongo (鮨すず木)

Down near the end of Hongo Ginza, past the fancy cured-meat purveyors and extremely hearty ramen dispensatories, a quiet little house with a fading noren waits. With bamboo. And the sign says ‘sushi’, but there’s no menu. The ‘design aesthetic’, such as it is, is the timeless one that pervades Japanese restaurants of a certain […]