Douze Gout, Kyoto

Have you had this happen? You go somewhere a bit old-fashioned and traditional, like Kyoto, and spend a long weekend being old-fashioned and eating traditional food. By the end of it, you feel like you could murder a burger. It leads you to think things like “European food for lunch.” Silly me, I was a […]

Suehiro, Kyoto (末広)

You’ve gotta eat, and as we walked around the Kitayama / Kamigamo area, things evolved into lunch time. Passing this little place sequestered in a small street, the smell of soup stock was overpowering and sorta bewitching. Inside was very ‘timeslip’, as we say here in Japan. Time had definitely slipped for the two women […]

Suzuki Sushi, Hongo (鮨すず木)

Down near the end of Hongo Ginza, past the fancy cured-meat purveyors and extremely hearty ramen dispensatories, a quiet little house with a fading noren waits. With bamboo. And the sign says ‘sushi’, but there’s no menu. The ‘design aesthetic’, such as it is, is the timeless one that pervades Japanese restaurants of a certain […]

Bangkok Stand, Otemachi

Have you been to one of these places? I think they were emboldened by the success of Tinun in branching across Tokyo, and decided they would do their own thing. The difference is that they do it in convenient locations, like the basements of two buildings near my office. They’re serious about the ‘stand’ thing. […]