Bistro Bonnes Mares, Kanda

How do people decide they’ve had enough – learned enough, pushed enough, grown enough – and it’s time to settle in?Moreover, is it wrong to do this? Especially if you’re doing your thing better than most people could?And is it indicative of a deeper pathology that I read restaurant reviews while eating lunch? (This has […]

Al Porto Don, Tokyo

Whoo, that was close my friends… 鈴時さん and I actually got all the way to the table of Suginoko before the sight of the menus reminded me that I had been there before. Oops. Fortunately this was the penultimate day of new-venue restrictions, and in the future such little slips won’t risk endangering mt, errr, […]

Ichino ichino ichi, Nihonbashi

Fire, water, wind…an elemental dining experience is on offer here at Ichinoichinoichi (can I abbreviate that as ‘hey you’ or ‘the place’?). I first saw this n a magazine and was mildly impressed by the outdoor terrace, big torches, and overall resort-y aspect…until I saw the address was Nihonbashi! ‘Where could that BE,’ I thought […]

Gala, Tokyo (伽羅)

Well, notch off another one under the tracks. After this we’re down to branches of Kassen Ichiba, Takadaya, Beck’s Coffee and Nakau (oh, and one tiny noodle place). It’s going to be a slog, my friends. But we will persevere because…well, there’s nothing much better to do some days. This was very ordinary Chinese food. […]