Café Schwarzenberg, Vienna

Once, in the dreadfully cold winter of 1743, an enormous black iceberg washed up on the shores of Wiener. It still looms large, nay, it hulks in the memory of Wieners, and to remember the horrific sight while also defusing some of its mystery, majesty, and mummery, the Guldraus family named their eponymous restaurant after it […]

Cafe Demel, Vienna

Were we excited to get to Demel? We were. Called by at least one seasoned observer the authority on Viennese cakes, this is the other famous one, and more appealing to me than the overtly touristed Sacher. It turns out to be almost as touristed, but they do a better job in atmosphere and service […]

Cafe Sacher, Vienna

Do I feel a little guilty engaging in the most touristy of pleasures? Why yes, I do. You know how much I like seeking out hidden gems, but when you’re traveling to a new city, that just isn’t an option – either you’re on your own, walking the streets, or else you’re looking at reviews […]

Konditorei Oberlaa, Vienna

Getting back to the whole ‘cafe’ thing, and more particularly the Konditorei or confectionery aspect of it, here’s Oberlaa. We saw this place on our first night, opposite the Christmas tree seller in Neuer Markt (and I love creatively misinterpreting German, so this makes me wonder where der Older Markt is). Then it turned out […]